The Jura wine region has been on my radar for what feels like forever. I have heard the most amazing descriptions of Jura wines and was eager to try one. It turns out, it is not so easy to find one on a retail shelf. In fact, at least a couple of years have gone by with me thinking that when I see a bottle, I am definitely going to grab it.

In a universal twist of fate, the Wine Scholar Guild focused on the Jura region in the month May. Offering interviews with Jura wine makers and other experts of the region. The month culminated with a virtual wine tasting event. You grab a bottle of Jura wine and show up and taste and discuss with other members on a video call. There was plenty of time to order a bottle online if need be, but I had a pretty good idea where I could find one in the Atlanta area, I just need to drive about 20 miles to get it. This was just the impetus I needed to finally try a Jura wine.

First things first. Where is this tiny little region, and what kind of wine does it make?

The Jura region is located in France at the base of the Jura mountains, between Burgundy and Switzerland. It stretches approximately 50 miles, north to south. It was an OG Appellation d’Origine Controllee (AOC), receiving that designation in 1936. Currently, the Jura is home to 5 AOC designations specific to wine, one of which covers Cremant produced anywhere in the region. There are 2 additional AOCs noted on the map below that also refer to product produced and cover the entire area: MacVin (fortified), and Marc (brandy). Jura is the only French region producing only AOC quality level wines. Tres interessant.

Covering 2,000 hectacres, this tiny little region produces white, red, rose, sparkling, and employs perhaps every vintification process known. Straw wine, aging under flor, fortified wine, and brandy. Unique to, and synonymous with the Jura region is Vin Jaune. Literally translating to yellow wine, it is often called Golden wine and is considered to be one of the best wines in the world.

The Jura is home to primarily 5 grapes: Chardonnay, Savagnin, Poulsard, Trousseau, and Pinot Noir. Despite its vast array of wines and styles, white wines account for nearly 70% of production.

Perhaps the most fascinating thing I learned in studying this region is that Louis Pasteur was not only born in this region but conducted much of his early scientific research here. He was considered the “grape doctor” by locals and his research resulted in modern practices that combatted the early problems of wine making. He is considered by many to be the father of modern oenology. Yet he is most famous for milk?! Who knew?

I am going to give you a little spoiler alert. I am completely enamored with the wine I chose. I went with a Chardonnay, and it was so wildly different than any Chardonnay I have ever tasted. I could see how it might be the cilantro of the wine world. I think this wine could cause a visceral love/hate reaction. But I loved it. I felt like I just met a new best friend and getting to know them was going to be my favorite thing to do for the foreseeable future.

Domaine de Montbourgeau|L’Etoile|2020|14.5% ABV|$39.99

Domaine de Montbourgeau began in 1920, when Victor Gross first planted vines on the 9 ha estate. His son Jean, continued his work and expanded the domain, which is now run by his daughter, Nicole Deriaux. Her three sons, the fourth generation are continuing the family legacy.

The estate sits in the heart of the L’Etoile AOC. Translating to ”the star.” I have read two different theories on the attribute of this name. One is that it is due to the fossils of starfish found throughout the limestone soils of this tiny little appellation. The other is that there are 5 hills surrounding the appellation that also create a star shape.

The estate currently is 11 hectares, mostly devoted to Chardonnay, but also Savagnin, Trousseau, and Poulard. All aspects of growing and vintification are organic and with the utmost respect for natural processes. All of the grapes are hand harvested. Fermentation is with indigenous yeasts.

For this wine, the grapes are gently pressed with yield restrictions in mind – 100 liters of juice per 150 kg of grapes. The juice is allowed to settle for 12 hours before being transferred to stainless steel tanks for temperature controlled fermentation.

Following malolactic fermentation, the wine is transferred to small an demi muid barrels where it is allowed to age for 24-30 months prior to assemblage. It is during this time that the veil of yeasts forms. According to Wine Advocate, 2020 is the first time that Domaine du Montbourgeau made a white wine aged sous voile – under a veil of yeast. The Jura is known for this method for its Vin Jaune wines, which are made from the native Savagnin grape. This wine is predominantly Chardonnay, but according to the producer’s website a few stray plantings of Savagnin may be included in the Chardonnay plots.

I was literally blown away by the depth and complexity of this wine. Seriously, it blew my socks off. There were slightly oxidative notes from that sous voile aging. Also, hazelnut, butterscotch, an herbal note. Baked apple and citrus notes with perfect acidity to balance all of the richness that this wine brought to my palate.

Wild. That is the most accurate descriptor to sum up this wine. I am on a mission to discover more Jura wines. A nice little bonus to driving in town for this wine, was that the shop also carried several cheese from the Jura. I went with a 30 month comte – what a score! If you are in the Atlanta area, check out Perrine’s wine shop. There are three locations and her selections are outstanding.

Have experience with Jura wines? You know I want to hear your thoughts, and recommendations are always appreciated, so leave a comment.